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Each Patan Patola saree has two end-
panels as the yarns are doubled up and
tie-dyed for a symmetrical pattern. One
end-panel can be made more decorative
by weaving gold thread weft yarns.
The nature of the Patan Patola is that the
motifs are exactly the same on both sides
of the textile. While weaving I know which
is the main face of the fabric, as it faces
me. However, once the fabric is completed
and taken off the loom, it is difficult for me
even to know the obverse from the reverse
of the fabric, so well-defined are the motifs!
The loom for weaving the Patan Patola is a
harness loom made of wood and bamboo. It
is unique because it is the only kind of loom
in the handloom cottage industry that has a
slant with the right side being higher than the
left side and it has no paddle. Interestingly,
sal
means loom, and
vi
means weave, and
thus our family name Salvi means handloom
weaver.
The double-Ikat technique is thus an
extremely intricate and complex weaving
technique. It requires immense knowledge,
skill and experience as it involves twenty-five
processes from creating a free-hand drawing
of the pattern to transferring that on graph
paper for accuracy of motifs, sorting the
silk yarns, de-gumming them, resist-dyeing
the weft and warp yarns with natural dyes,
setting the loom with the warp yarns and then
weaving the weft yarns.
colour motifs appear on the woven textile. For weaving a
saree with an elaborate pattern in the end panels, field, corner
motifs of the field and borders, an incredible number of
calculations are required so that the yarns are resist-dyed to
obtain well-defined motifs on weaving.
The warp yarns have to be set perfectly on the loom with just
the right tautness, and the weft yarns also have to meet them
perfectly with just the right tightness of the woven fabric that
is obtained by using a long needle to adjust the tension of
the yarns. Each Patan Patola saree has two end-panels as the
yarns are doubled up and tie-dyed for a symmetrical pattern.
One end-panel can be made more decorative by weaving gold
thread weft yarns.
