69
traditional designs like
Mandar Phulia
(hibiscus
flower),
Ek Phulia
(one flower),
Das Phulia
(ten flowers),
Baulamalia
(bunch of flowers),
Kalapatani, Nagabandh, Asmantara
(stars),
Vichitrapuri, Sachipar, Saktapar
(inspired by the
chess board). These have become the iconic
designs of Sambalpuri Ikat. Motifs such as
Pushpabati, Ratnabati, Mrignayani
(eyes of a
deer),
Gajagamini
(elephant motif),
Padmavati
,
Champakmali, Malinitoya, Indumati, Bhanumati,
Pancha Kanya
(figures of five girls),
Kalinga
Sundari
, some of which are named by weavers,
have become famous over a period of time and
have remained popular. They have created a
memorable image of Odisha.
Over time as the beauty of Sambalpuri Ikats
spread far and wide, there was a demand for
them to be exhibited, exported and supplied
widely. According to O’Malley in 1809, the
silk and tussar sarees produced in Barapali
of the Vichitrapuri, Saptapar, Muktajahri and
Patora styles were very famous. According
to Deputy Commissioner Major Cumberlege
in 1864, five villages from Sambalpur district
produced almost a thousand sarees every year.
The Sambalpuri sarees were also selected for
display at an exhibition in Paris in 1854 and in
Wimbley in 1924.
Outstanding Creations
The highlight of the Sambalpuri saree is
the long
pallav
and in some sarees it is very
elaborate. This
pallav
panel bears elaborate
compositions and at times depicts scenes
described in verses penned by acclaimed Odiya
poets. My father wove a saree with an end-
panel depicting the contribution of Gandhi
ji
.
It bears an outline of India with the portrait of
Gandhi
ji
and the words
“Gandhiji ke Avadan”
meaning contribution of Gandhi
ji
, images
of women spinning, men weaving and of the
The Sambalpuri sarees were also
selected for display at an exhibition in
Paris in 1854 and in Wimbley in 1924.
